The hole shebang

Brown’s Bakery
Mark Hancock

But
more important, is there a better (tasting) and worse (health-wise) way
to start a day than a donut? One will lift the spirits, but nobody eats
just one. After six, the spirits are still high, but the body droops
uncomfortably toward the ground.

Still, we do not eat donuts every day.

They
are treats and, when one is treating oneself, one wants the best treats
available. Some swear by Krispy Kreme or any of the ubiquitous Daylight
Donuts tucked into shopping centers across the metro.

But if you’re looking for something a little different, Oklahoma City has plenty to choose from.

Brown’s
Bakery, 1100 N. Walker, is the kind of place where you can buy donuts
and a birthday cake and a dozen cupcakes all in one stop. Its wares are
very traditional — not a lot of hoopla here — but still quite tasty.

There’s
also fresh-baked bread, if you’re one of those “toast for breakfast”
people, and mini-sausage rolls, but this is about donuts, so stop trying
to distract me.

A
newcomer to the group is Route 66 Donuts, 8368 N.W. 39th in Bethany.
Here you’ll find all the usual donuts and toppings and one special
addition: the chocolate-glazed cinnamon roll.

The
texture of the roll is very much like a glazed donut, with a light,
airy center surrounded by a sweet, crispy shell. The normal
cinnamon-sugar glaze is hiding in the folds of dough and the chocolate
frosting on top works its way through, as well.

Chocolate
and cinnamon are not everyday friends. Chocolate is too much of an
alpha dog and cinnamon, while happy to be a role player, needs to be
able to shine alone. But when they team up, like on this donut, they’re a
force to be reckoned with.

A donut by any other name

Speaking of forces,
would you be interested in a Strong Pimp Hand? How about a Camel Toe?
These are pastries and they are available for purchase at Polar Donuts,
1111 N. Meridian.

Owner Younts Waters is
having fun with his business. That probably explains why everybody
working there is wearing a fedora and why he’s not afraid to get a
little tongue-in-cheek.

Both
the Pimp Hand and the Camel Toe are basically filled bear claws with
strategic shaping. More interesting is what goes into the donuts:
potato. Waters, taking a cue from the old Spudnuts brand, uses potato
flakes to give his donuts a signature taste and look.

“That’s what makes us unique,” he said. “The potato makes sure the donuts stay soft and fresh all day.”

Another
unique offering at Polar Donuts is the glazed chocolate donut. Here,
the dough is chocolate flavored with the normal sugar glaze on top.

They’re only available in the summer, so don’t wait too long to try one.

Oh, and get an apple fritter. Seriously.

They’re not as funny as the Pimp Hand, but they taste like apple-y heaven.

There’s also something to be said for accuracy in naming, and so far, no one has been able to prove that
Best Donuts, 2320 N.W. 23rd, doesn’t have fair claim to the name. This
neighborhood gem is turning out glazed donuts that meet and exceed the
standard set by Krispy Kreme. They’re delicate, delicious and addictive.

Try
Best Donuts’ old-fashioned donuts for something with a little more heft
(especially the blueberry cake version), or my new favorite thing ever:
raspberry jelly-filled donut holes. If you’re worried about the
donut-to-filling ratio, you probably worry too much. These are
delightful.

Late-night donuts

But what if it’s late? What if the only donut places still going are the chains?

What then, imaginary problem-haver? What then?

Then
you go to Republic Gastropub, 5830 N. Classen, and order some dessert.
Meme’s donuts are fried cake donut balls covered in cinnamonsugar and
served with chocolate, caramel and strawberry dipping sauces, based on a
recipe from owner Keith Paul’s grandmother.

“My
grandma would make homemade biscuit dough and fry donut holes tossed
with powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar,” he said. “We’ve changed it up a
little bit. We don’t do the powdered sugar, but we’ve added dipping
sauces.”

They were so
popular when the restaurant opened that nearly 75 percent of tables were
ordering them, which necessitated the installation of a second fryer.

Are they good? Yes. Yes, they are.

Meme’s
donuts will sate whatever urges you might be experiencing. Well … not
every urge, but that’s asking a lot of a donut, anyway.

Greg Elwell

This material falls under the archives category because it was imported from our previous website. It will eventually be filtered into the proper category as time allows.

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