OKG Eat: 7 places for devious duck

Ducks — they’re trying to kill you. Much as apes and unicorns fought for dominance, ducks and humans are in an age-old war to rule Earth. We have the upper hand for now, but if we don’t continue hunting and devouring these waterfowl, it will be us waddling around the park, begging for bread. Here are a few great duck dishes to help mankind continue its reign.

by Greg Elwell, photos by Mark Hancock and Garett Fisbeck

Golden Phoenix. (Garett Fisbeck)

Golden Phoenix. (Garett Fisbeck)

Golden Phoenix

2728 N. Classen Blvd.

524-3988

It’s a well-known fact that ducks, like the cast of Jersey Shore, love tanning. So, when you see the roast duck at Golden Phoenix, know that this is basically a dream come true for our de-feathered friends. Served with buns on the side, this quacktastic dish is sure to fill you to the bill and energize you for club- hopping with Snooki.

 Paseo Grill . (Garett Fisbeck)

Paseo Grill . (Garett Fisbeck)

Paseo Grill

2909 Paseo St.

paseogrill.com

601-1079

You had me at “cracklins.” The big pile of tossed greens is nice, and the slices of medium-rare duck breast are exquisite, but the true delight of Paseo Grill’s Maple Leaf Farms Duck Salad is in the crunchy bits of fried duck skin. Finally, a salad with what we all really crave: lots of meat and skin! Now, who’s coming with me?!

 Canton Restaurant. (Mark Hancock)

Canton Restaurant. (Mark Hancock)

Canton Restaurant

2908 N. MacArthur Blvd.

946-8512

Why is chicken the bird we’re always frying? Sure, your weird uncle might try to fry a turkey on Thanksgiving and accidentally set the yard on fire, but mostly it’s chicken that gets a hot oil bath. Well, no more! Canton Restaurant has taken a bold stand, batter-dipping its duck before frying it up to a dark, crispy brown and slathering it with gravy and almond slices.

Covell Park. (Garett Fisbeck)

Covell Park. (Garett Fisbeck)

Covell Park

1200 W. Covell Road, Edmond

covellpark.com

285-1720

Covell Park, the new sister restaurant to 23rd Street’s popular Guernsey Park, has a similar menu in a new venue. With the same high-quality service and presentation, it’s a real treat to chow down on its gorgeous duck salad. Served almost like a seared ahi tuna, it has a big flavor and satisfying heft that will turn anyone into a duck lover.

The Mantel (Mark Hancock)

The Mantel (Mark Hancock)

The Mantel Wine Bar & Bistro

201 E. Sheridan Ave.

themantelokc.com

236-8040

The Pot Union has been hard at work trying to get equal treatment under the law for years, yet they can’t make inroads against the powerful Pan Lobby’s influence. Who has even heard of Pot-Seared Duck Breast? Not the folks at The Mantel, where its Pan-Seared Duck Breast is served with an intoxicating chipotle raspberry beurre rouge and perfectly cooked mushroom jasmine rice.

Packard's New American Kitchen. (Garett Fisbeck)

Packard’s New American Kitchen. (Garett Fisbeck)

Packard’s New American Kitchen

201 NW 10th St.

packardsokc.com

605-3771

I don’t think you’re ready for this jelly. Well, it’s not really jelly. Actually, it’s duck rillette, which is delicious duck meat poached, salted and cooled with fat to form a flavorful spread. And with creole mustard, cherry compote and caper berries, it might be too much goodness for most mouths to bear. Still, if you think you’re ready, head over to Packard’s and start spreading the news.

Rococo. (Mark Hancock)

Rococo. (Mark Hancock)

Rococo

12252 N. May Ave.

rococo-restaurant.com

212-4577

Ugh. Men. Why are they so obsessed with a duck’s looks and not with what’s on the inside? Let those superficial dudes eat duck breast while you pay attention to something more meaningful: its liver. Rococo rolls its smooth duck liver mousse in pistachios and serves it up with crackers, relish, onions, marmalade and more for a sophisticated take on the duck’s inner beauty.

Print headline: Devious ducks

Greg is the Gazette's full-time food writer and reviewer. He goes to restaurants a lot. He orders three entrees and gets funny looks and then takes out his camera and people are like, "Ugh. This guy." Greg is writing this right now and it feels weird to keep referring to myself in the third person. On Twitter and Instagram: @Elwelleats

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