Thursday 24 Apr
 
 

Green is good

Two enterprising former restaurant owners looked around Oklahoma City’s restaurant industry and thought it could be a lot greener. Chris Buerger and his partner, Brian DeShazo, took notice of the fact that there is no infrastructure to recycle in area restaurants.
04/23/2014 | Comments 0

Chow time

Chow’s Chinese Restaurant

3033 N. May Ave.

949-1663

What works: Dumplings, anything with ginger-scallion sauce, and lots more.

What needs work: Watch out for the raw garlic.

Tip: Take-out is a big time-saver.

04/23/2014 | Comments 0

Peru-fect

Naylamp Peruvian Restaurant

2106 SW 44th St.

601-2629

facebook.com/naylamprestaurante

What works: The friendly staff and authentic food give guests a true Peruvian experience.

What needs work: The small restaurant is kind of difficult to spot.

Tip: The choritos a la chalaca are a must-try for seafood fans.

04/23/2014 | Comments 0

OKG eat: Highfalutin dining

You don’t have to be a millionaire or a head of state to eat like one. While dining like a king every night might quickly take its toll on your pocketbook, sometimes it feels good to eat like a well-heeled big wheel. For a special occasion or maybe just as a special treat, look no farther than these upscale eateries to tempt your taste buds and delight your palate.

— By Louis Fowler, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/23/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Fresh off the farm

There was a time not too terribly long ago in Oklahoma City when there was a chain on every corner and the closest you could get to local was to make a trip to your farmers market and make the food yourself. We always celebrate all things local, and luckily, it’s getting easier for OKC restaurants to incorporate locally grown, all- natural ingredients into what they offer.


— By Devon Green

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Soccer pub crawl

Football season is finally here! We call it soccer, but that doesn’t have to stop you from indulging in two favorite European traditions: walking and pub crawling. Since the Energy FC games will be alcohol-free, we’ve created a list of pubs and taverns within walking distance from Clement E. Pribil Stadium at Bishop McGuinness Catholic High School.

— by Devon Green 

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/09/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Rising from the...
Restaurant Reviews
 

Rising from the ashes


Golden Phoenix has reopened, and is even better than before.

Doug Hill July 11th, 2012

Golden Phoenix
2728 N. Classen Blvd.
524-3988

What works: The beautifully remodeled dining room with the same authentic and delicious Asian food.
What needs work: A menu that’s intimidating in its length and obscure descriptions. 
The tip: It’s possibly the best Asian food in the entire state.  

Credit: Mark Hancock

 On Jan. 11, a blaze fed by 60 mph winds raced across the roof of Golden Phoenix. Oklahoma City firefighters brought the fire under control, but not before enough damage was done to halt the restaurant’s operation, along with the adjoining Asian grocery.

Personally supervising the reconstruction contracting, owner Larry Lee reopened both businesses in May.

“It was like a blessing in disguise,” said manager Jason Xa. “There was an opportunity to remodel, modernize and expand the dining room.”

Although the fancy new sign hasn’t yet been installed out front, inside it’s like an all-new restaurant.

Still, there are some familiar sights. The glass case containing whole roasted ducks, chickens and pork is there, along with oversized aquariums holding live lobsters and tilapia to select for your meal. Also unchanged is the restaurant’s commitment to preparation of high-quality authentic Asian cooking.

“Our main objective is to serve good food and provide good service,” Xa said.

What sets Golden Phoenix apart is that there is no attempt to modify recipes for Western tastes.

Located in the heart of the city’s Asian district, the eatery’s culinary philosophy is reflected in the customer base. The dishes are of a level found in Taipei, Vancouver or San Francisco, rather than the American Midwest.

This is not standard-issue, all-youcan-eat Chinese fare.

You’ll find recognizable items here, but it’s all fresh and cooked to order using traditional condiments, spices and flavorings.

Lee and Xa wisely made the decision to keep their seasoned Vietnamese and Chinese chefs on the payroll for the months that the Golden Phoenix was grounded.

Since re-opening, business has increased by a third. This is the place to impress your out-of-town visitors with how exotically sophisticated OKC can be.

Golden Phoenix’s menu can be overwhelming. It’s 15 pages and lists 325 separate and numbered items.

Unfamiliar dishes such as female capelin with salt and pepper ($8.95) compete for your attention alongside the more well-known sweet-and-sour chicken ($7.95) or beef with snow peas ($7.95).

“I love to recommend things for people,” Xa said. “We answer questions and make suggestions for our customers.”

Tell your server what you like — veggie or what kind of meat, spicy or not, Chinese or Vietnamese — and take the direction provided.

If you’d rather spend 40 minutes reading the menu, however, go for it. Seemingly peculiar contradictions abound. Frog leg with creamy butter ($12.95) is listed under chicken dishes. Supreme chicken soup with rice noodle ($6.95) is below the heading “Rice Noodle Beef Soup” dishes.

As for what to order, it just depends on how adventurous you want to be.

Everything appears to be prepared with care and fresh ingredients. Goat in hot pot ($24.95) or jellyfish salad ($13.95) goes way beyond the familiar boundaries in which many grew up.

Fried tofu with eggplant in garlic sauce ($7.95) is a vegan delight. The sweet, velvety vegetable was sliced with purple skin left on, then sautéed alongside big chunks of mahoganycolored tofu. The result is a good contrast of textures and mild sesame oil flavor.

“That has become a very popular dish with vegetarians,” Xa said.

Pan-fried, salted squid ($9.95) is Asian calamari. The difference is a liberal lacing of scallions and jalapeños.

It will be difficult bypassing this dish to try new things on return trips.

And there will be return trips.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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