Thursday 24 Jul

Food briefs: You’re toast, er, pretzel

There’s a new food truck on the scene.
07/22/2014 | Comments 0

Upward mobility

Locals can have fresh microgreens and herbs for cooking in a new and convenient way. Microgreens, a chef favorite, are petite vegetable greens that add color, nutrition and flavor to dishes.
07/23/2014 | Comments 0

Vietnamese comfort food

I’ve always had a love affair with the refreshing, healthy cuisine of Vietnam. I love the fragrances, the fresh herbs, cilantro, basil, mint and other Asian herbs: perilla, Vietnamese coriander and sawtooth cilantro. And I love the contrast and balance in almost every dish: spicy vs. cool, salty vs. sweet and steamed vs. crispy.
07/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG eat: Cool places, cooler drinks

We know. It’s hot. It’s summer in Oklahoma. Cool down by sampling cocktails that local bars and restaurants have concocted just for you. Find a nice, air conditioned space or a shaded patio and while away the hours drinking the flavors of summer. You might decide it’s not that bad after all.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock, Shannon Cornman and Lauren Hamilton

07/23/2014 | Comments 0

New kids on the block

There are a wealth of new local eateries cropping up in the metro and even more coming. If they’re not on your radar, they should be. From the comfy atmosphere at The Barrel on Western Avenue to the laid-back vibe at the Plaza District’s coffee shop, you might find a new regular hangout.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

07/16/2014 | Comments 0


Ah, the perils of working with special dietary needs. It can make dining out a pain. Luckily, with restaurateurs becoming more savvy to their diners’ needs, there are a bevy of places in OKC to satisfy your craving for the foods you love without losing taste. All choices this week have been road-tested by gluten-sensitive foodies to guarantee satisfaction.
07/09/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · You say ‘neck-o,’...
Restaurant Reviews

You say ‘neck-o,’ I say ‘knee-ko’

Any way you pronounce it, Sushi Neko has a stellar menu for all to enjoy.

Greg Elwell September 19th, 2012

Sushi Neko
4318 N. Western

What works:
top-notch nigiri, spicy miso and gyoza
What needs work:
Watch what you’re spending. It adds up fast.
Reservations aren’t always necessary, but it’s nice to have a guaranteed seat.

Sushi is not about raw fish. I mean, it is, sometimes, but it’s also about artistry and skill. The best sushi combines excellent flavor with immaculate presentation and perfect construction.

It should not be a shock to anyone who has dined in Oklahoma City that all this can be found at Sushi Neko.

I’m never sure how to pronounce the name. Neck-o? Knee-ko? Not that it matters, I guess. However you say it, people know what you’re talking about and are generally excited to go.

Inside, Sushi Neko is a feast for the eyes. Small tables, raised platforms, special booths, stools at the bar: It’s a lovely space where it’s hard to find a bad seat. We were seated in a dark little alcove. I preferred to think of it as romantic, rather than accepting that management didn’t want me scaring away the normal-looking people.

The starter menu has several options, but none so inviting as the gyoza ($7). Six delicate pork dumplings are served steamed and seared with a salty dipping sauce. They are best shared, so everybody is making the same stupid “Oh, sweet Thor, these are good” faces.

Another wonderful option is the spicy miso soup ($3). The orangish broth conceals a few secrets that aren’t hard to suss out. One large, perfectly cooked shrimp. A tender, grit-free scallop. And a mussel, still on the shell. If you’re in the mood for a light meal, the spicy miso with a couple pieces of nigiri sushi will do you well.

But I am not a man who is often in such a mood. I wanted more. So, so much more.

The fatty tuna nigiri (market) was a highlight and the mackerel nigiri ($3.89) was cut perfectly, supple and substantial. I was quite taken with the  smoked trout nigiri ($4.79), as well, although it is certainly a departure from the rest of the menu with its firm texture and assertive flavor.

A moment, please, to discuss the Philadelphia roll ($6). Neko’s version has smoked salmon, cream cheese and asparagus. This, in my estimation, should replace the California roll as everyone’s “starter sushi.” It’s simple, flavorful and non-intimidating.

My wife and I disagreed on the Triple Delight roll ($6). While we both liked the flavor of the tempura avocado, sweet potato and asparagus, with eel sauce on top, I found the texture a little off-putting.

There were no such disagreements about the Lifesaver roll ($14). With an interior of crab salad and tempura bacon, the real show is up top, where chefs layer cuts of fish and avocado and lemon. If you’re not terrified of rainbows, this should probably be your favorite roll.

I also had the Terry roll ($10) with crab, tempura shrimp and avocado wrapped in soy paper and garnished with Japanese mayo. Mayo on sushi? Yes. While not my favorite, at least Neko has a light hand with it and you can scrape it off if it’s not your bag.

Do you like sushi? Are you willing to pay a premium for atmosphere and attention to detail? Then Sushi Neko should be your next stop.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5


10.02.2012 at 04:28 Reply

Just in case it is keeping you up at night... it is "neck-o," and it means cat in Japanese. Also, I think their udon is pretty %u304A%u3044%u3057. You should try it, especially now that it is fall.