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Shell game


Craving lobster? OKC has a number of places that will do in a pincer — er, pinch.

Greg Elwell January 9th, 2013

What foods do you consider fancy?

fancylobster

And how many of those fancy foods do you actually want to eat?


Because while caviar and pâté sound quite hoity-toity, the hoi polloi are often less excited when they’re served fish eggs and mashed goose liver. Steak can be fancy, but you can also get it at Denny’s.


But lobster? Lobster is fancy. If you imagine a lobster talking, it probably has a British accent. Draw an animated lobster and I bet you’ll include a top hat, a monocle and an opera cape. That’s fancy.


One problem with lobster is that it’s hard to share. But Red PrimeSteak, 504 N. Broadway, has taken care of that. Chef Luke Fry has a preparation that lets everybody have a taste.


“Good Egg restaurants are always looking for a way to go above and beyond for our customers, and it shows in this lobster tail,” he said.


It uses a cold-water lobster tail (market price), lifted off the shell and oven-roasted with just a bit of salt and pepper and a light glaze of butter. After a little browning, the tail is sliced on a bias and then reassembled on top of the shell. The end result is simple, straightforward and delicious. And since it’s already been sliced, it’s easy for everybody to grab a bite and dip in the clarified butter.



Pure decadence
But what if you’re by yourself for lunch and want a decadent treat? Cruise into Deep Deuce Grill, 307 N.E. Second, and try the lobster rolls ($13).


The classic Maine favorite is a little harder to come by in the Heartland. But at Deep Deuce Grill, you get a couple of small sandwich rolls packed to overflowing with chopped and shredded New England lobster. A little (or a lot) of melted butter makes it nice and rich. The only danger: eating too fast.


Saii Asian Bistro and Sushi Bar, 6900 N. May, wants customers to have a few lobster options, which is why you can get either the Lobster Bomb ($16) or Lobster Volcano ($19) rolls.


Saii said its lobster rolls are some of the best sellers. Price doesn’t come into it; most customers just love the taste.


It’s not hard to see why. The Lobster Bomb wraps rice around tempura-fried lobster, avocado, asparagus and mayo. The whole roll is then baked and served with garlic mayo, tobiko and eel sauce on top.


The Lobster Volcano starts with a classic California roll in the center and layers on salmon, baked lobster and scallions. Doesn’t that sound good? Of course it does.


Still, if you’re looking for a new twist on an old preparation, Saii also does Sake Lobster ($18), which is a sake-marinated lobster tail flash-fried in jalapeño butter sauce. That sound you hear is your taste buds politely clapping.



‘Twice as nice’
Now, let’s talk about double-fancy. America loves stuffing one food into another food, sometimes with mixed results. But Rococo Restaurant and Fine Wine, 2824 N. Pennsylvania, has got a winner.


It’s a split-open lobster tail filled with one of Rococo’s famous crab cakes.


“It’s twice as nice,” said owner Bruce Rinehart. “You can get a lobster Thermidor — we’ll gladly do that for our guests — but the crab cake-stuffed lobster just takes it to the next level.”


It’s fantastic. Tender, buttery lobster with the zing of Rococo’s crab cake will make you fan yourself and mutter things like “Heavens to Betsy!” before falling into a fainting couch.


At Stella Modern Italian Cuisine, 1201 N. Walker, you can get your lobster fix in for lunch with a spicy lobster salad sandwich on toasted brioche ($14). I didn’t find it particularly spicy, but it’s a creamy and delicious sandwich nonetheless.


Or you can indulge in a lobster risotto with green peas ($18 lunch, $30 dinner). Buttery risotto and tender crisp peas are a fantastic foundation for the subtle taste of lobster.


Sundays are technically the start of the week, which is why I saved Picasso Cafe’s, 3009 Paseo, lobster dish for the finale. If there’s a better way to start your week than lobster eggs Benedict ($16), I don’t know it.


The nice thing about lobster is, it’s an indulgence. We’re too far from the ocean for it to be more than an occasional treat. But it’s good to know that Oklahoma City has you covered on options when you decide to get fancy and go claws deep in some lobster.

 
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